To start to put my filling and sanding, I first got the tools and equiment i needed. This was: sandpaper, two filler-knifes/scrappers, filler mix, water amd a filler-board. I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
After i got everything i needed, i started to mix the filler on the board by putting some of the filler mix on the board and then adding water. I kept mixing the water and filler mix together untill it was smooth with no lumps and was the right consistancy, i used the two filler-knifes to mix it.
Once i had the filler mixture done i then started to fill in any small cracks or holes in the plaster that had been left from plastering, i dont this very carfuly and tried not to work the filler too much when i applied it. I done this by putting some filler on one of the knifes and then with the other knife cafuly took off a small peice of filler and then at an agnle when other the hole/crack that needed repairing so that it would fill.
After i filled every crack/hole on my wall i waited for the filler to set and then started sanding over the filler, i sanded so that my wall was all smooth and there was no lumps out on my wall.
Tuesday 28 February 2012
Paint and miss-coat
To start to my miss-coat painting i first got the equiment i needed. This was: paint, water, a paintbursh and a mixing container, I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
After getting all the tings i needed, i then pourd paint into the container i had and then added roughly 10%-15% water of the amount of paint i used, and then i mixed it.
After i was finished mixing, i then started to paint my wall.
After i finished painting my wall i could see where all the holes and small cracks were on my wall so i could then fill it.
After getting all the tings i needed, i then pourd paint into the container i had and then added roughly 10%-15% water of the amount of paint i used, and then i mixed it.
After i was finished mixing, i then started to paint my wall.
After i finished painting my wall i could see where all the holes and small cracks were on my wall so i could then fill it.
Monday 27 February 2012
architrav, dado and skirting
To start off doing my architrave, dado and skirting, first off i got the tools and equiment i needed. This was: a mitra-saw, a tape-measure, the timber, a pencil, a hammer and some nails. I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
First off, i started to get the measurements needed, and then marked them out on my timber. To cut then out, i cut the top end at a 45 degree angle (just one side on the vertical pieces of timbmer, but both sides on the horizontal pice of timber). This is s they fit together better.
After cutting them out, i then fitted them striaght to the doorframe and plaster wall with nails.
I done exactly the same for each one, but the size and lengh slightly differered for each. The only different from the dado and skirting to the architrav was that on the dado and skirting i scribed into the shape on the corners so the fit was tighter.
Zak
First off, i started to get the measurements needed, and then marked them out on my timber. To cut then out, i cut the top end at a 45 degree angle (just one side on the vertical pieces of timbmer, but both sides on the horizontal pice of timber). This is s they fit together better.
After cutting them out, i then fitted them striaght to the doorframe and plaster wall with nails.
I done exactly the same for each one, but the size and lengh slightly differered for each. The only different from the dado and skirting to the architrav was that on the dado and skirting i scribed into the shape on the corners so the fit was tighter.
Zak
Platerboarding
To start to put my plasterboard up, first off i got the tools and equiment i needed. These were: A stanly-knife, a tape-measure, the platerboard, a pencil, a drill and some plasterboard screws. I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
To start off i first measured the srea that i needed to plasterboard, and then i measured the measurements onto the plasterboard and marked it out with the pencil. I then scored the line that was mark out with the stanly-knife and then removed the exess platerboard that wasnt needed.
with the plasterboard that was now cut out to the right shape i then fitted it to the area needed to be plasterboarded and then drilled it on. I contuined this untill all the area i needed to do was done.
To start off i first measured the srea that i needed to plasterboard, and then i measured the measurements onto the plasterboard and marked it out with the pencil. I then scored the line that was mark out with the stanly-knife and then removed the exess platerboard that wasnt needed.
with the plasterboard that was now cut out to the right shape i then fitted it to the area needed to be plasterboarded and then drilled it on. I contuined this untill all the area i needed to do was done.
Monday 20 February 2012
Door Frame
To start to build a door frame for my bay, first off i got the tools and equiment i needed. These were: A saw, a hammer, nails, a tape-measure, timber, a tri-square, optionaly a hop-up (to cut the wood on to make things easier) and a chisle. I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
To start building the door frame, i first measured out the length of the timber so i could make the frame for the door big enough for the door to fit in, with then an extra 2mm gap around the door, i then measured the right lengh of the top of the frame, and then cut them all down to size with a saw. After i cut the frame to the right size i then had to cut out some of the wood on the 3 peices so that it would fit together better, this was a housing joint. the two lengh bits of timber i could use a saw for this, but the top bit that held the two lengh peices in placei used both a saw and a hammer and chisle as i had to take a strip of wood out which was not at the end so had to get into the wood.
After i had cut all the wood out and caved the housing joints, i then slotted all the timber together so the frame could take place. I then used a tri-square to make sure the two top corners were square and then cut out a small thin piece of timber that was long enough for the bottom so i could then fix it down. I then checked all the corners again to make sure all four conrers where square and when they were i added one more support on the top corner so that the frame would not change angles so remained square.
my next task was to fit the doorframe in, for this i used woodern wedges, i pleaced four sets on each side, and then made sure each side was at a complete 90 degree angle to the floor with a spirit level and then fixed the wedges in with screws.
To start building the door frame, i first measured out the length of the timber so i could make the frame for the door big enough for the door to fit in, with then an extra 2mm gap around the door, i then measured the right lengh of the top of the frame, and then cut them all down to size with a saw. After i cut the frame to the right size i then had to cut out some of the wood on the 3 peices so that it would fit together better, this was a housing joint. the two lengh bits of timber i could use a saw for this, but the top bit that held the two lengh peices in placei used both a saw and a hammer and chisle as i had to take a strip of wood out which was not at the end so had to get into the wood.
After i had cut all the wood out and caved the housing joints, i then slotted all the timber together so the frame could take place. I then used a tri-square to make sure the two top corners were square and then cut out a small thin piece of timber that was long enough for the bottom so i could then fix it down. I then checked all the corners again to make sure all four conrers where square and when they were i added one more support on the top corner so that the frame would not change angles so remained square.
my next task was to fit the doorframe in, for this i used woodern wedges, i pleaced four sets on each side, and then made sure each side was at a complete 90 degree angle to the floor with a spirit level and then fixed the wedges in with screws.
Stud wall
To build a stud wall for my work bay, first off i got the tools and equiment i needed. These were: A saw, a hammer, nails(3 inch), a tape-measure and timber (cls 3inch) and optionaly a hop-up to cut the wood on to make things easier. I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
I started off my measuring the height and width of my bay and wrote down these measuremeants between each aby with the gap. After taking all the correct measuremeants i then marked these out on the timber and began to cut the wood.
I cut out the length bits of wood and the verital pieces (including the headers) which stand on the ground parrallell to eachother vertically. It is very important to make sure every peice of timeber is the right lenght becuase is they are not then the stud wall will not be square and will tilt when put up, this includes both verical and horizontal pieces of the wood needed.
Once i had cut all the timber out that i had needed, i marked out when i needed to fix and then carfuly hammerd in the timber, to the base timber and the header peice of timber. Once i had done this, i fixed the stud wall frame to the wall with a hammer and nails.
The next thing i had to do was to make another header, this was height relative to how big i was going to have to make my door-frame. I had to make two of these, the first one i got simply from cutting out the wood from the bottom of the frame that was not needed out and then fixed it in under the top piece of timber, and then i had to cut another one out the same size. The second one i had to fix to the relative height of the door-frame (like it says above).
After this all i had to do was to fix noughings in each side of the frames, (between each bay) and then one inbetween the two headers (vertically)
Stud wall is often know as the first fix of the construsction world.
I started off my measuring the height and width of my bay and wrote down these measuremeants between each aby with the gap. After taking all the correct measuremeants i then marked these out on the timber and began to cut the wood.
I cut out the length bits of wood and the verital pieces (including the headers) which stand on the ground parrallell to eachother vertically. It is very important to make sure every peice of timeber is the right lenght becuase is they are not then the stud wall will not be square and will tilt when put up, this includes both verical and horizontal pieces of the wood needed.
Once i had cut all the timber out that i had needed, i marked out when i needed to fix and then carfuly hammerd in the timber, to the base timber and the header peice of timber. Once i had done this, i fixed the stud wall frame to the wall with a hammer and nails.
The next thing i had to do was to make another header, this was height relative to how big i was going to have to make my door-frame. I had to make two of these, the first one i got simply from cutting out the wood from the bottom of the frame that was not needed out and then fixed it in under the top piece of timber, and then i had to cut another one out the same size. The second one i had to fix to the relative height of the door-frame (like it says above).
After this all i had to do was to fix noughings in each side of the frames, (between each bay) and then one inbetween the two headers (vertically)
Stud wall is often know as the first fix of the construsction world.
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