To start to build a door frame for my bay, first off i got the tools and equiment i needed. These were: A saw, a hammer, nails, a tape-measure, timber, a tri-square, optionaly a hop-up (to cut the wood on to make things easier) and a chisle. I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
To start building the door frame, i first measured out the length of the timber so i could make the frame for the door big enough for the door to fit in, with then an extra 2mm gap around the door, i then measured the right lengh of the top of the frame, and then cut them all down to size with a saw. After i cut the frame to the right size i then had to cut out some of the wood on the 3 peices so that it would fit together better, this was a housing joint. the two lengh bits of timber i could use a saw for this, but the top bit that held the two lengh peices in placei used both a saw and a hammer and chisle as i had to take a strip of wood out which was not at the end so had to get into the wood.
After i had cut all the wood out and caved the housing joints, i then slotted all the timber together so the frame could take place. I then used a tri-square to make sure the two top corners were square and then cut out a small thin piece of timber that was long enough for the bottom so i could then fix it down. I then checked all the corners again to make sure all four conrers where square and when they were i added one more support on the top corner so that the frame would not change angles so remained square.
my next task was to fit the doorframe in, for this i used woodern wedges, i pleaced four sets on each side, and then made sure each side was at a complete 90 degree angle to the floor with a spirit level and then fixed the wedges in with screws.
Monday, 20 February 2012
Stud wall
To build a stud wall for my work bay, first off i got the tools and equiment i needed. These were: A saw, a hammer, nails(3 inch), a tape-measure and timber (cls 3inch) and optionaly a hop-up to cut the wood on to make things easier. I also then got my PPE: gloves, my work boots and then my glasses.
I started off my measuring the height and width of my bay and wrote down these measuremeants between each aby with the gap. After taking all the correct measuremeants i then marked these out on the timber and began to cut the wood.
I cut out the length bits of wood and the verital pieces (including the headers) which stand on the ground parrallell to eachother vertically. It is very important to make sure every peice of timeber is the right lenght becuase is they are not then the stud wall will not be square and will tilt when put up, this includes both verical and horizontal pieces of the wood needed.
Once i had cut all the timber out that i had needed, i marked out when i needed to fix and then carfuly hammerd in the timber, to the base timber and the header peice of timber. Once i had done this, i fixed the stud wall frame to the wall with a hammer and nails.
The next thing i had to do was to make another header, this was height relative to how big i was going to have to make my door-frame. I had to make two of these, the first one i got simply from cutting out the wood from the bottom of the frame that was not needed out and then fixed it in under the top piece of timber, and then i had to cut another one out the same size. The second one i had to fix to the relative height of the door-frame (like it says above).
After this all i had to do was to fix noughings in each side of the frames, (between each bay) and then one inbetween the two headers (vertically)
Stud wall is often know as the first fix of the construsction world.
I started off my measuring the height and width of my bay and wrote down these measuremeants between each aby with the gap. After taking all the correct measuremeants i then marked these out on the timber and began to cut the wood.
I cut out the length bits of wood and the verital pieces (including the headers) which stand on the ground parrallell to eachother vertically. It is very important to make sure every peice of timeber is the right lenght becuase is they are not then the stud wall will not be square and will tilt when put up, this includes both verical and horizontal pieces of the wood needed.
Once i had cut all the timber out that i had needed, i marked out when i needed to fix and then carfuly hammerd in the timber, to the base timber and the header peice of timber. Once i had done this, i fixed the stud wall frame to the wall with a hammer and nails.
The next thing i had to do was to make another header, this was height relative to how big i was going to have to make my door-frame. I had to make two of these, the first one i got simply from cutting out the wood from the bottom of the frame that was not needed out and then fixed it in under the top piece of timber, and then i had to cut another one out the same size. The second one i had to fix to the relative height of the door-frame (like it says above).
After this all i had to do was to fix noughings in each side of the frames, (between each bay) and then one inbetween the two headers (vertically)
Stud wall is often know as the first fix of the construsction world.
Monday, 5 December 2011
3,4,5
to start off 3,4,5, i put my PPE, which was my work boots. I then got the equiment i needed, stringline, bricks and a tapemeasure.
The idea of this exerise was to make a perfect rectagnle with 90degree angles on the corner. I measued out the lengh of the string to be just over what i needed for the lenghs so there was enough room for crossovers.
two lenghs had to be 4meters long (both paralel) and the other two had to be 3meters long. this means the diaganal from corner to corner would be 5meters, hence 3,4,5.the maths behind it is simple, 3squard + 4squard = 5squard. in this case the area was 25meters squard.
after i laid this out, i had to make a smaller version with in the rectangle. this was exactly the same pinceables but off one of the corners i already made. i made this one to half the size.
The idea of this exerise was to make a perfect rectagnle with 90degree angles on the corner. I measued out the lengh of the string to be just over what i needed for the lenghs so there was enough room for crossovers.
two lenghs had to be 4meters long (both paralel) and the other two had to be 3meters long. this means the diaganal from corner to corner would be 5meters, hence 3,4,5.the maths behind it is simple, 3squard + 4squard = 5squard. in this case the area was 25meters squard.
after i laid this out, i had to make a smaller version with in the rectangle. this was exactly the same pinceables but off one of the corners i already made. i made this one to half the size.
Monday, 14 November 2011
English bond
For building a English bond 12 bricks long by 8 bricks high by 2 bricks wide. I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 60 bricks, 2breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush, a line gap smoother and a brick gage.
I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 12 bricks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart. and then 2 bricks in width do they are parale.
After marking out the right distance I then began to lay the pug out all the way along the measurements and then laid the bricks on top, with all the ‘faces’ facing outwards towards the egdes, as this would be the fronts of my wall.
After laying the first level I made sure they were all level, plumb and the right height. I done this with every level, and lined up all the bricks to make sure they were all in line as they went up so they were the same space apart on all the levels. All the level were the same apart from every other level a half brick was used on each end to make the wall more stable. I made sure all the bricks were lined up to match every other level.
After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional
manhole
For building a manhole 3 bricks long by 6 bricks high by 2 and a half bricks wide. I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 60 bricks, 2breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush, a line gap smoother and a brick gage.
I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 3 bricks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart. and then 2 and a half bricks in lenght at a 90 degree angle to the line of the first 3 brick. I then continued this exactly the same with symmetry to create a rectangle.
I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 3 bricks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart. and then 2 and a half bricks in lenght at a 90 degree angle to the line of the first 3 brick. I then continued this exactly the same with symmetry to create a rectangle.
After marking out the right distance I then began to lay the pug out all the way along the measurements and then laid the bricks on top, with all the ‘faces’ facing towards me, as this would be the front of my wall.
After laying the first level I made sure they were all level, plumb and the right height. I done this with every level, and lined up all the bricks to make sure they were all in line as they went up so they were the same space apart on all the levels. All the level were the same apart from every other level a half brick was used on each end to make the wall more stable. I made sure all the bricks were lined up to match every other level.
After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional
Monday, 7 November 2011
Building a wall 12x9
For building a wall 12 bricks long by 9 bricks high I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 108 bricks (some 3 halves2 breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush, a line gap smoother and a brick high measure.
I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 12 bricks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart.
After marking out the right distance I then began to lay the pug out all the way along the measurements and then laid the bricks on top, with all the ‘faces’ facing towards me, as this would be the front of my wall.
After laying the first level I made sure they were all level, plumb and the right height. I done this with every level, and lined up all the bricks to make sure they were all in line as they went up so they were the same space apart on all the levels. All the level were the same apart from every other level a half brick was used on each end to make the wall more stable. I made sure all the bricks were lined up to match every other level.
After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional.
Breeze block pyramid
For building a breeze block pyramid, 3 long by 3 bricks high I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 8 bricks, 2 of the breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush and a line gap smoother.
I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 3 breeze blocks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart.
I then laid out my pug in the area measured out for the right length and put my first 3 blocks on. I made sure they were plumb, level and the right height. I done this for each level but one less block per each level, ( 3 long, the second level 2 blocks in length and the final level only 1 block).
After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional.
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