English bond

For building a English bond 12 bricks long by 8 bricks high by 2 bricks wide. I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 60 bricks, 2breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush, a line gap smoother and a brick gage.

I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 12 bricks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart. and then 2  bricks in width do they are parale. 

 

After marking out the right distance I then began to lay the pug out all the way along the measurements and then laid the bricks on top, with all the ‘faces’ facing outwards towards the egdes, as this would be the fronts of  my wall.

After laying the first level I made sure they were all level, plumb and the right height. I done this with every level, and lined up all the bricks to make sure they were all in line as they went up so they were the same space apart on all the levels. All the level were the same apart from every other level a half brick was used on each end to make the wall more stable. I made sure all the bricks were lined up to match every other level.

After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional

manhole

For building a manhole 3 bricks long by 6 bricks high by 2 and a half bricks wide. I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 60 bricks, 2breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush, a line gap smoother and a brick gage.

I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 3 bricks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart. and then 2 and a half bricks in lenght at a 90 degree angle to the line of the first 3 brick. I then continued this exactly the same with symmetry to create a rectangle.

After marking out the right distance I then began to lay the pug out all the way along the measurements and then laid the bricks on top, with all the ‘faces’ facing towards me, as this would be the front of  my wall.

After laying the first level I made sure they were all level, plumb and the right height. I done this with every level, and lined up all the bricks to make sure they were all in line as they went up so they were the same space apart on all the levels. All the level were the same apart from every other level a half brick was used on each end to make the wall more stable. I made sure all the bricks were lined up to match every other level.

After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional

Building a wall 12x9

For building a wall 12 bricks long by 9 bricks high I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 108 bricks (some 3 halves2 breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush, a line gap smoother and a brick high measure.

I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 12 bricks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart.

After marking out the right distance I then began to lay the pug out all the way along the measurements and then laid the bricks on top, with all the ‘faces’ facing towards me, as this would be the front of  my wall.

After laying the first level I made sure they were all level, plumb and the right height. I done this with every level, and lined up all the bricks to make sure they were all in line as they went up so they were the same space apart on all the levels. All the level were the same apart from every other level a half brick was used on each end to make the wall more stable. I made sure all the bricks were lined up to match every other level.

After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional.

Breeze block pyramid

For building a breeze block pyramid, 3 long by 3 bricks high I started off first by putting on all my PPE, this being my work boots (steel toe-caped), my glasses and my gloves. I then started collecting all my materials. These included: 8 bricks, 2 of the breeze blocks and a board (for the pug to sit on), a trowel, pug, a spirit-level, a pencil, a tape measure, a wire brush and a line gap smoother.

I mixed the pug until it was the right consistence for laying the bricks and I then started to measure the right length for the 3 breeze blocks in length using the tape measure and using the length on the brick chart.

I then laid out my pug in the area measured out for the right length and put my first 3 blocks on. I made sure they were plumb, level and the right height. I done this for each level but one less block per each level, ( 3 long, the second level 2 blocks in length and the final level only 1 block).

After it was complete, I brushed the wall down with a wire brush and then smoothed the gaps out with a special tool to make the wall look smarter and more professional.

5 brick fill in

For this task that was with a partner to start off we got our PPE. This was our steel toe capped boots, glasses and gloves. The gloves was to protect out hands from the lime, this is used on dead bodys and slowly rots flesh.
The equipment we used was a board, two breeze blocks to support the board, and then we put pug on the board. Other tools we needed were: a trowel, a spade, bricks, a spirit-level, a tapemeasure and a pencil.

To start off I looked at the brick chart to see what the correct distance (2230mm)

Moving the bags of ballast.

To start off, I first looked at the job sheet. From this I then valued the risk assessment on my colleague and then the risk assessment on task. After doing the previous I then checked the delivery sheet to see what I would need to do for the task and what the quantity that I needed to produce was to be. After reading the delivery ticket I signed and agreed to the statement and changed any incorrect parts to the agreement. 

I then looked for any risks in the college that could affect me or any workers what were working in the same situation, such as closed doors and then solved the problems but putting door-wedges in so I would be able to support myself with two hands if need be.

Safety boots (steel toe-caped) were worn to protect our feet and gloves and glasses as well as this we were also careful for cars on the road passing. We wore the boots to protect our feet from anything heavy falling on them, the gloves to protect things like splinters and blisters.

I then read the delivery sheet to see what the job was and what quantity was need of each material.

The hazards for this task is that: you can easily strain muscles in your back when your picking up the ballast, or even in your arms or legs. This can lead to a long period off whilst recovering.

Another hazard would to be if the bag of ballast slip and the sand got in your eyes, you would have to wash it out and the sand id irritant to your eyes.

The first task was to move a pallet of sand bags into the class room (12 bags of sand) although 30 were taken in; a pallet was also taken in so the sand bags could be places on top. The bags were laid down three in a row, 6 on each level, every level alternative in the way they had been placed. We then had to repeat this when removing them back outside to their original location.

When carrying the bags we have to bend with our legs and keeping are backs straight. The bags each weighing 25kg were lifted onto our shoulders. Only one was taken at a time to avoid any strains to ourselves.

Moving one ton of ballast

To start off, I first looked at the job sheet. From this I then valued the risk assessment on my colleague and then the risk assessment on task. After doing the previous I then checked the delivery sheet to see what I would need to do for the task and what the quantity that I needed to produce was to be. After reading the delivery ticket I signed and agreed to the statement and changed any incorrect parts to the agreement. 

I then looked for any risks in the college that could affect me or any workers what were working in the same situation, such as closed doors and then solved the problems but putting door-wedges in so I would be able to support myself with two hands if need be.

The hazards for this task are similar to the bags of ballast; you could pull a muscle in your back when you’re shovelling the ballast into and out of the bag and when twisting your body. You could then also get the sand in your eyes.

The second job we had to do was to shift a one ton of ballast (sand and stones) from a bad into a pile across the car park. All the same safety hazards and equipment was the same, steel toe capped boats, glasses and gloves. To do this we used spaces and wheelbarrows. We loaded the ballast into the wheelbarrows using the spades and then wheeled the wheelbarrows across the car park and tipped out the content. After unloading the one ton bag we had to load it again using the same methods as before apart from when putting it back into the bag we used spades instead of tipping it in. As the ballast was fair condense we had to dive the space into it and twist the spade to loosen it up, this was a fair effective method. When loading the bad back up we had to be careful to do it correctly and make sure the bag did not crease so it would all fit back in.